Storage and Shop Builds

DIY Power Tool Accessories for Your Workshop

Simple shop-made accessories such as jigs, push blocks and holders can make power tools safer and more accurate. Learn what to build and how to keep it safe.

On this page
  1. Why make your own accessories
  2. Safety rules that apply to every accessory
  3. Push blocks and push sticks
  4. Simple jigs for repeatable cuts
  5. Holders and supports
  6. Choosing materials
  7. Test, label and retire
  8. Where to start

Why make your own accessories

Power tools do general jobs. A saw cuts, a drill makes holes, a router shapes edges. Many of the things that make those jobs repeatable, accurate or safer are small accessories, and several of the most useful ones can be made from plywood offcuts, hardwood scraps and a few screws.

Shop-made accessories have two real advantages. They can be sized for exactly the job in front of you, and they cost little. They also have a limit: a homemade accessory is only as good as its design and construction, and a poor one can be worse than none. Treat each as a piece of equipment, not a throwaway, and test it carefully before relying on it.

Safety rules that apply to every accessory

Before building anything, keep a few principles in mind:

  • The accessory should keep your hands farther from the cutting edge, not closer.
  • Never rely on a shop-made device to hold a workpiece in a way that could let it spin, lift or kick back. Where a job needs clamping, clamp it.
  • Do not remove or defeat any guard that came with a tool to make an accessory work.
  • Follow the tool manual for the operation. If an accessory cannot be used within the manual’s guidance, do not use it.
  • Wear eye and hearing protection, plus a dust mask or respirator when the cut makes fine dust. Hearing and dust protection should be a habit rather than an afterthought.
  • Unplug the tool or remove the battery before attaching or adjusting anything near the blade or bit.

This article is general information and not a substitute for the manufacturer’s instructions for your equipment.

Push blocks and push sticks

A push block is a handled piece of wood, usually with a heel or a grippy sole, that moves a workpiece past a blade or cutter while your hand stays above and away from it. Push blocks are used with tools such as a table saw or router table, where fingers can get closer to the cutter than is comfortable.

Basic design points:

  • A broad base spreads pressure so the board stays flat on the table.
  • A heel or notch at the back catches the end of the board and pushes it forward.
  • A comfortable handle lets you apply downward and forward pressure without gripping the stock directly.
  • Cut the block from a stable material and make several, so you always have one that suits the stock size.

Replace a push block when its edge is chewed up or cracked; it is a consumable. A good habit is to use the push stick and not your fingers whenever the stock is narrow or the cut is close to the blade.

Simple jigs for repeatable cuts

A jig positions the work or guides the tool so that results can be repeated. Some of the most common examples:

  • Crosscut sled. A flat base with a fence at right angles that carries the workpiece through a saw for square cuts. It is a larger project and best built carefully from flat materials, then checked for square.
  • Edge-guide straightedge. A strip of straight plywood or a straight board clamped to the work guides a circular saw or router base for long straight cuts. This is a good beginner jig and takes advantage of the known distance between the tool’s base edge and the blade. Measure that distance on your own tool.
  • Drilling guide block. A block with a hole drilled square through it helps keep a hand drill vertical. It is a limited aid compared with a proper drill press, but it is helpful for repeated holes in the same spot.
  • Stop blocks. A clamped block that lets you cut many parts to the same length without measuring each one.
  • Spacer blocks. Short blocks of a known width used to set the distance between shelf pins, hinges or boards.

A jig is only as accurate as its construction. Use straight stock, check squareness with a reliable square, and mark the jig with what it is for. Our notes on checking square and a combination square are useful here.

Holders and supports

Some accessories do not cut anything, but make a tool or workpiece easier to handle.

  • Tool stands and cradles. A scrap-wood cradle can hold a drill or driver upright on the bench so the chuck is easy to reach.
  • Bit and blade holders. A block drilled to hold router bits, driver bits or drill bits keeps them organized and protects their edges. A good time to add labels is when you drill the holes.
  • Support stands. A simple stand with an adjustable height can hold long boards level as they come off a saw. Level support helps prevent pinching and binding, and it keeps the board from tipping off the table.
  • Dust ports. Shop-made adapters can connect a tool outlet to a hose. Check the fit and seal carefully, and avoid materials that can build up static or overheat.

If your tools see regular use, think about how workholding systems and clamping systems can be built around them, since good support often matters as much as the cutting accessory itself.

Choosing materials

Plywood is a common choice because it is flat and stable. Hardwoods are good for wear surfaces like fences and push block heels. Avoid soft or cracked scraps for anything that carries load, and watch out for hidden fasteners or nails in reclaimed wood, which can damage blades and bits.

Use screws that are countersunk below the surface wherever a blade or cutter could pass nearby, and add glue to joints that will see load. Sand rough edges so the accessory is comfortable to hold. A coat of finish helps keep dirt off, but avoid slick finishes on surfaces that must grip.

Test, label and retire

Before using a new accessory on good material, test it on scrap with the tool at a controlled pace. Look for movement, flexing or anything unexpected. Mark the accessory with the tool and operation it is built for.

Inspect your accessories regularly. If they warp, crack, chip or loosen, repair or replace them. A worn jig can lead to inaccurate cuts and unsafe situations, so retiring one is better than patching it up every time.

Where to start

A beginner’s set might include a pair of push blocks, a set of stop blocks, an edge-guide straightedge and a bit holder. Those four are easy to build, require little material and teach the basics: planning around the cutter, staying square, and keeping hands clear. More complex jigs can follow once those feel natural.

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