Start with an inventory
A cart with storage succeeds or fails on its layout. Shelves that are too tall waste space, shelves that are too short will not take your biggest tool, and cubbies sized for no tool in particular fill with odds and ends. The fix is to design the storage around the tools you own, not around a general idea of what a cart should look like.
Lay out everything that will live on the cart on the floor or bench. Measure the height, width and depth of each item or case, and write the numbers down. Group the items into rough families: power tool cases, loose power tools, hand tools, fasteners and supplies, and long items. Those families become the storage zones of your cart.
Match storage type to the tool
Different tools suit different storage.
Open shelves suit boxes and cases, benchtop tools and anything bulky. Shelf height should equal the tallest item plus about an inch or two, so you can lift it in and out without scraping. Fixed shelves are stronger; adjustable shelves allow changes later but need good support.
Bins and totes suit loose items: cords, clamps, sanding supplies, glue. Open-front bins let you reach in without lifting the bin out. Standard plastic bins come in repeatable sizes, so you can design a shelf opening to fit a bin exactly, which makes later changes easy.
Cubbies are fixed compartments, often built with vertical dividers on a shelf. They are good for tools that are easily knocked over, such as a cordless drill and driver, a hand plane, or a framing square. A cubby should be only slightly larger than the tool, so the tool stays upright, but wide enough that you can grip it.
Vertical slots are narrow dividers for flat items: sanding sheets, saw blades in their sleeves, handsaws, straightedges and sheet-style supplies. They use little space and prevent stacked items from sliding.
Hooks and rails on the sides or ends of the cart suit clamps (clamp racks are a common shop-built solution), cords, a dust-collection hose or a pair of earmuffs and safety glasses. This is a good place to keep protective gear within reach.
Sizing tips
- Add a small allowance, around half an inch, for ease of use around any cubby.
- Plan shelf spacing from the tallest item downward. Keep a few inches of reserve for new tools.
- Put the heaviest items on the lowest shelf. A heavy machine on the top shelf makes the cart top-heavy and harder to turn.
- Keep the top surface clear if you plan to use the cart as a work surface or an assembly table.
- Remember the thickness of the material. A 3/4 inch shelf takes 3/4 inch from the opening above it, so subtract it when you calculate the clear height.
As a hypothetical example, suppose you want two clear openings of 12 inches each. With 3/4 inch plywood for the base, the middle shelf and the top, the three panels add 3 x 3/4 = 2.25 inches, so the frame is 12 + 12 + 2.25 = 26.25 inches tall. Four-inch casters bring the cart to 30.25 inches. Draw your own version and add it up carefully, since a mistake here is easy to make.
A simple layout for a two-shelf cart
For many small shops, a layout like this works well:
- Bottom shelf: heavy items like a benchtop sander, a power tool case, or a toolbox.
- Middle shelf: bins for the items you use week to week, with cubbies on one side for drills, drivers and similar tools.
- Top: a flat work surface with a low edge lip so small things stay on.
- Side: hooks for cords, clamps or a work light.
Adjust to your own tools. If you mostly work with hand tools, a shallower design with more vertical slots and a drawer unit may suit you better. If you work with power tools, the weight and the cords will be your main concern, so power tool storage on a cart should include a place for batteries and chargers that is dry, tidy and away from sawdust.
Build notes
Construction follows the general cart plan: plywood or lumber sides, a sturdy base, locking casters, and shelves fastened with glue and screws or set into dados. Cut dividers to a consistent size using a stop block so that all the cubbies match. Sand every edge where a hand will pass. A small chamfer or round-over makes the cart pleasant to handle.
If you use pocket holes for the shelves, plan them so the holes face the inside of the cart where they will not be seen. For a long shelf, add a center support, since a loaded shelf can bow over time.
Making the layout work in daily use
A good layout is easier to maintain. Some habits that help:
- Give every tool a home and keep it there. Tool labeling on the shelf edge, or a simple outline marked on the surface, helps everyone know where things go.
- Put the items you use most at hand height, and the rarely used ones high or low.
- Keep similar items together. If you often use the same three tools for a job, store them together.
- Re-evaluate every few months. A cart that no longer matches your tools needs a new shelf spacing, not a bigger cart.
For lock-and-key concerns, such as storing tools where children can reach them, a cart is not secure storage. Keep sharp items, chemicals and batteries in a place appropriate for them, and follow the manufacturer’s storage instructions.
When to rework a cart
If you find yourself stacking tools on top of each other, or setting things on the floor, the layout is no longer working. Try moving the shelf heights, swapping a shelf for bins, or adding hooks on the end panels. Most carts built from plywood and screws can be adjusted without starting over, which is one of the reasons to build one yourself.