What a jigsaw does well
A jigsaw moves a narrow blade up and down through the work while the base plate rides on the surface. The narrow blade is what lets it turn curves and cut openings in the middle of a panel. The same narrow blade flexes, so jigsaws are better at shapes than at long, perfectly square cuts. Knowing that limit prevents a lot of frustration.
Choosing the blade
The blade has more effect on the result than almost any other setting.
- Tooth count. Fewer, coarser teeth cut quickly in thick wood and leave a rougher edge. Finer teeth cut more slowly but give a smoother edge in thin material, plywood and laminates.
- Tooth direction. Most blades cut on the upstroke, which can lift splinters on the top face. Some blades have teeth that point down, or a reverse-tooth design, which cut on the downstroke and help protect the top face of veneered or laminated panels. These are often chosen for surfaces that show.
- Width. Narrow blades turn tighter curves but flex more. Wider blades hold a straighter line.
- Material. Blades are made for wood, metal, plastic and other materials, and the packaging usually states what they suit. Using a wood blade in metal quickly ruins it.
- Shank type. Different saws accept different blade attachments, so check that the blades fit your saw.
Dull or bent blades wander, burn and break. Replace them instead of pushing harder; the range of jigsaw blades is wide, so match the blade to the material.
Speed and orbital action
Match speed to the material. Higher speeds generally suit softer wood and plastic, while slower speeds suit metal and some plastics that can melt and fuse behind the blade. Variable speed lets you start slowly and adjust, and it helps to understand how RPM and speed settings relate to cutting behavior.
Orbital action makes the blade swing forward slightly on the upstroke. A higher orbital setting cuts faster and clears chips in thick wood but leaves a rougher edge and more splintering. A low or zero setting is slower and cleaner, which is usually better for thin material, metal and finish cuts.
Safe setup
- Read the manual and learn the blade-change method for your model.
- Unplug the saw or remove the battery before changing blades.
- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection, and a dust mask when the material creates dust.
- Clamp the work firmly. A jigsaw makes a vibrating cut, and loose material chatters and can move toward your hand.
- Make sure the blade will not strike the bench, clamps or the floor on the downstroke. Leave room under the cut.
- Hold the base plate flat against the work and keep both hands on the tool.
- Do not set the saw down until the blade has stopped.
Check also that the cord is clear of the cutting line.
Making curved cuts
- Mark the line clearly. Dark pencil lines on masking tape help on light or glossy surfaces.
- Start with the blade clear of the material, bring the saw to full speed, then advance.
- Follow the line with a steady feed rate and let the blade do the cutting. Pushing hard bends the blade, giving angled, bevelled edges.
- For tight turns, slow down and ease the saw around instead of twisting it forcefully. A narrow blade helps, and so does a series of relief cuts, which are short cuts from the waste side to the line that let waste pieces fall away as you turn.
- Cut slightly outside the line and clean up afterward with sanding if the shape must be exact.
Keeping the grain in mind also helps, as wood grain direction affects how readily edges splinter.
Plunge cuts
A plunge cut starts in the middle of a panel, for example a sink cutout.
- The safest method for beginners is to drill a starter hole inside the waste area, large enough for the blade, then begin the cut from there.
- Some experienced users tilt the saw forward on its front edge with the blade clear, start it at full speed and gently lower the blade into the material. This is trickier and the blade can skate, so practice on scrap, hold the saw firmly and use a blade rated for the job. If you are unsure, use the drilled hole.
Reciprocating saws also make plunge cuts, but with a jigsaw the narrow blade and flat base give more control.
Reducing tear-out
Tear-out is the splintering along the cut edge. To reduce it:
- Use a fine-toothed or downcut blade for visible faces.
- Cut with the good face down when using a standard upcutting blade, since splinters form on the top. Reverse that if you use a downcutting blade.
- Apply masking tape along the line on the face that will show.
- Lower the orbital setting and slow the feed.
- Keep the base plate pressed firmly, and use a zero-clearance base insert if your saw offers one.
- Use a fresh blade.
Chatter and blade runout can add to the problem, so a bent blade or loose clamp is worth ruling out.
Common mistakes
- Forcing a dull blade, which bends it and ruins squareness.
- Cutting small unclamped pieces.
- Twisting tightly with a wide blade, which can snap it.
- Lifting the saw before the blade stops.
Practice on scrap in the same thickness first. This article offers general information, so follow your own saw’s manual for specific instructions.