Why the teeth decide everything
A hand saw is a row of tiny cutting edges on a strip of steel. How those edges are shaped, spaced and set determines how fast the saw cuts, how smooth the surface is, and whether it works with the grain or across it. Handle comfort and blade length matter, but hand saw teeth are the first thing to read about on any saw.
Rip, crosscut and combination teeth
Wood fibers run lengthwise, like a bundle of straws. Cutting along them is different work from cutting across them.
- Rip teeth are filed straight across, so each tooth works like a tiny chisel that scrapes out a bit of wood. They are meant for cutting along the grain, they usually have fewer teeth per inch, and they cut aggressively but leave a rougher surface.
- Crosscut teeth are filed at an angle, giving each tooth a pointed edge that works like a knife and severs the fibers. They are meant for cutting across the grain and usually have more teeth per inch, so they cut more slowly with a cleaner result.
- Combination or general-purpose teeth are a compromise for people who want one saw for mixed work. They are not as good as a dedicated saw at either job.
Many modern hand saws use hardened teeth that cannot be resharpened and are meant to be replaced when dull. Traditional steel saws can be sharpened with files, which takes practice but extends their life.
Understanding tooth count
Tooth count is usually given as teeth per inch (TPI) or points per inch (PPI). The differences are easy to remember.
- Fewer, larger teeth remove material quickly and clear sawdust well. They suit thick stock and rough work.
- More, finer teeth cut slowly but leave a smoother surface and are less likely to splinter thin material.
As a loose guide, a coarse rip saw may have somewhere in the single digits per inch, general crosscut saws are often in the range of eight to twelve, and fine joinery saws can run higher. Treat those numbers as approximate, because makers count differently and the right figure depends on the wood and the cut. A useful rule of thumb is that at least a few teeth should be in the wood at any moment. If the teeth are too fine for thin material they ride over it and chatter.
Main kinds of hand saw
Panel saws have a wide blade and no spine. They are the traditional choice for cutting boards to length or ripping along the grain, and they come in rip and crosscut versions.
Back saws carry a rigid strip of metal along the top edge that keeps the blade flat and straight. Tenon saws are the larger version, while dovetail saws and similar small back saws have finer teeth for delicate joints. The spine limits how deep you can cut, which is the price of the control.
Japanese pull saws cut on the pull stroke. Because the blade is under tension while cutting, it can be very thin, which makes a narrow cut and little effort. Many have teeth that cut both ripping and crosscutting, and some are double-edged with a coarse side and a fine side. Blades are typically replaceable.
Coping saws have a thin blade stretched in a deep frame. They cut tight curves and can be turned to follow a line, which makes them useful for trim joints. Fret saws are a deeper-framed cousin for scrollwork.
Hacksaws and junior hacksaws are for metal. Their fine teeth are set up for steel and pipe rather than wood, so keep them separate from your wood saws.
Keyhole or pad saws have a narrow tapered blade for starting a cut in a drilled hole or a tight spot.
Choosing by task
- Cutting boards to length: a crosscut panel saw or a general-purpose pull saw.
- Splitting a board along the grain: a rip saw, although many people switch to a power saw for long cuts.
- Cutting joints such as tenons and dovetails: a back saw or fine pull saw. Fine cutting works best with a clear, accurate mark, and a marking knife leaves a line the saw can follow more precisely than a pencil.
- Cutting curves: a coping saw for small curves, or consider a jigsaw for larger work.
- Everyday jobs around the house: one general-purpose saw with replaceable-tooth blades is often enough to start.
What to check before buying
- Blade straightness and stiffness. Sight along the blade. It should not be bent or wavy.
- Handle fit. A comfortable, secure grip helps control. Try holding it as you would to cut.
- Tooth quality. Teeth should look even and sharp, with no missing or bent points.
- Replaceable or resharpenable blade. Decide whether you want to maintain the saw or replace blades.
- Length. Longer blades take longer strokes and cut faster, but very long saws are harder to control in small work.
Using and caring for a hand saw
Start the cut with light strokes, using your thumb or a knuckle to guide the blade at the edge. Let the saw do the work instead of pressing hard, and keep the stroke smooth. Support the board so the offcut does not break away and splinter the edge. Wear eye protection when sawing, since chips can fly, and keep your guiding hand clear of the blade path.
Wipe the blade clean and dry after use, since rust dulls and pits the steel. A light film of oil or wax helps in humid shops. Store the saw so the teeth do not knock against other tools, perhaps with a cardboard guard over them. For traditional steel saws, keeping edges sharp is a skill worth learning, because a sharp saw is both safer and more accurate than a dull one that needs force.