Start by controlling the water
Repairs go better when the water is stopped before you begin. Before reaching for any wrench, learn where the shutoffs are. Most fixtures have their own stop valve on the supply line, often under a sink or behind a toilet. The main shutoff for the house is typically near where the water line enters the building, at a meter, or in a basement or utility area. Finding it before you need it matters, because during a leak is a poor time to search.
Stop valves that have not moved in years can be stiff or may leak when turned, so turn them gently. A valve that will not close fully, or leaks around its stem, is itself a repair candidate. After shutting the supply, open a faucet at a low point to relieve pressure and drain what is in the line. If your repair involves a water heater or anything electrical nearby, turn off power at the breaker first.
Tools for leaks
A few basic tools handle many leaks.
- Adjustable wrenches and channel-type pliers tighten compression nuts, packing nuts and supply connectors. Tighten gradually; overtightening can crack a fitting or crush a washer. The topic of wrench types explains how to choose a wrench that fits the nut well.
- A basin wrench reaches faucet nuts in confined spots under sinks.
- A screwdriver set covers handle screws and cartridge retainers. If a screw is badly worn, our topic of stripped screws covers removal.
- Replacement washers, O-rings and cartridges. Take the old part with you when you shop, since sizes vary by manufacturer. These are parts rather than tools, but they are the usual reason a faucet drips.
- Thread sealant or PTFE tape for threaded joints that have weeped. Clean the old sealant off first.
- Pipe repair clamps, repair sleeves and self-fusing tape are temporary or semi-permanent patches for pinhole leaks and small splits. A patch is generally a way to buy time, and a damaged length of pipe is usually best replaced by cutting out the bad section and fitting new pipe.
- A flashlight or headlamp, and a mirror, since many leaks are in tight spots.
Finding the source is half the job. Dry the pipe with a towel, then watch for the first bead of water to return. Water often travels along a pipe or framing before it drips, so the visible wet spot may not be the origin.
Replacing worn fittings and short sections of pipe
When a fitting or section of pipe is corroded or cracked, the usual approach is to cut it out and replace it. That calls for:
- A tubing cutter or pipe cutter matched to the pipe material, plus deburring and reaming tools. The pipe fitting tools topic breaks this down by material.
- Push-fit couplings or repair couplings, which can join cut ends without soldering when the manufacturer’s instructions allow it for that pipe type.
- A torch and solder for sweat joints, along with a heat shield. Pipes that still hold water cannot be soldered successfully, since the water draws away the heat, so make sure the line is drained and dry.
- Penetrating oil for rusted or seized nuts and threads. Give it time to work rather than forcing a wrench.
- Two pipe wrenches for threaded steel pipe, one to hold and one to turn.
Work from the manufacturer’s directions, since repair products have specific requirements. If the pipe is corroded in several places, replacing a longer section, or getting a professional opinion, may be a better use of time than a series of small patches.
Tools for clogs
Clogs are common and usually do not call for dismantling pipe.
- A cup plunger for sink, tub and shower drains and a flange plunger for toilets. Form a seal, keep the plunger covered with water, and use steady strokes.
- A hand-crank drain snake for deeper clogs in sinks and tubs. A closet auger is designed for toilets and is shaped so it does not scratch the porcelain.
- A bucket and a pair of channel-type pliers or a wrench to open a P-trap, the curved section under a sink, which often traps the hair, grease or debris causing a blockage. Place the bucket underneath first.
- Rubber gloves and eye protection, since drain contents can be unpleasant and may splash.
- A drain-cleaning brush or flexible plastic strip for hair in tub and shower drains.
Chemical drain cleaners are generally best avoided. They can be harsh on skin and eyes, can be dangerous if mixed with other products, and a clog that does not clear leaves caustic liquid standing in the drain. If you do use one, follow the label closely and use the guidance on chemical safety equipment. If multiple fixtures drain slowly or sewage backs up, the problem may be in the main line, which is a case for a professional.
Cleanup and drying
Water damage worsens quickly, so cleanup is part of the repair.
- Towels, a mop and buckets for immediate spills.
- A wet/dry vacuum, which makes shop vacuum cleanup of standing water much quicker.
- Fans and, where possible, a dehumidifier to dry out the area. A heat gun is not a drying tool and should not be used for it.
- Caulk or sealant to restore watertight joints around fixtures once the area is dry. Our overview of caulking tools covers neat application.
Look for lingering moisture behind cabinets and under flooring. Wet drywall, insulation or flooring may need removal, and persistent dampness can lead to mold. If water damage is widespread, consult a professional and, where it applies, your insurance provider.
Keeping a repair kit ready
A compact repair kit might hold adjustable wrenches, channel-type pliers, a basin wrench, a screwdriver set, a small tubing cutter, PTFE tape, a few washers and O-rings, a repair clamp, a plunger and a flashlight. Store the kit in a dry spot where you can find it. A tool inspection routine takes only a minute and keeps wrenches and cutters in working order. Spare parts are cheap compared with the cost of a mid-night trip to the store.
This is general information, not professional trade advice. Gas lines, main sewer problems, and anything involving a water heater’s gas or electrical connections should be left to a licensed professional, and local rules may require permits for some repairs.