Start with the pipe material
The pipe in your walls determines most of the tools you need. A tool that is ideal for copper may be useless on PEX, and vice versa. Before shopping, identify what you are working with. Copper is metallic and reddish-brown, though it may be dull or green with age. PVC is rigid and usually white, CPVC is rigid and often cream or light yellow, and PEX is flexible tubing often found in red, blue or white. Older homes may have galvanized steel, black iron or cast iron pipes. If you are unsure, local code and the product markings on the pipe are the places to look.
The pipe fitting tools below are grouped by material, followed by tools that nearly every material shares.
Copper tubing
Cutting. A rotary tubing cutter is the standard tool. You tighten the cutting wheel on the tube a little at a time while rotating the cutter around it. Light, even pressure produces a straight, square cut. Compact versions fit in cramped spaces between joists or studs. A fine-toothed hacksaw works as a backup, but square cuts are harder to get by hand.
Preparing the end. Cutting leaves a burr on the inside edge, and many tubing cutters include a small reamer for it. Skipping this step can restrict flow and invite turbulence and wear. The outside of the tube and the inside of the fitting both need cleaning, typically with a wire brush or abrasive cloth, until they are bright.
Joining. The traditional method is soldering with flux, solder and a torch, covered under soldering basics. Alternatives include push-fit fittings, which need a clean cut and a depth mark, and press tools, which are expensive and are usually rented or left to professionals. Read the manufacturer’s instructions for any fitting, since requirements vary.
Bending. Soft copper tubing can be bent with a spring or lever-type bender rather than cut and fitted. Our topic on pipe bending explains when that makes sense.
PVC and CPVC
Cutting. A ratcheting plastic pipe cutter or a fine-toothed saw with a miter box can both work. The aim is a cut square across the pipe.
Preparing the end. A deburring tool or sharp utility knife removes the burr and a light chamfer on the outer edge, which helps the pipe slide into the fitting without scraping cement off.
Joining. These pipes are joined with solvent cement, usually after applying primer where the product instructions call for it. The cement is a chemical weld, not a glue that fills gaps. The tools are simple: a dauber or brush, a rag, and a marker to mark insertion depth. Work in good ventilation, avoid open flames since the fumes can be flammable, and wear gloves and eye protection. Different cements are formulated for different plastics, so use the type that matches your pipe. Cure times vary with temperature and pipe size, and the can will say how long to wait before pressure testing.
PEX tubing
Cutting. A dedicated PEX cutter produces a square cut. Ordinary scissors or a knife can leave an angled or uneven end that fits poorly.
Joining. PEX uses several connection systems. Crimp rings need a crimping tool and often a go/no-go gauge to check the result. Cinch clamps use a cinching tool. Expansion systems use an expander tool and a ring. Push-fit fittings need no special tool beyond a cutter and a depth mark. These systems are not always interchangeable, so match the tool to the fitting type you plan to use, and use the sizes the manufacturer specifies.
Handling. PEX is flexible, so a few tube supports and straps help with routing. It should not be bent more tightly than the manufacturer allows.
Threaded steel and galvanized pipe
Cutting. A wheel-type pipe cutter, a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw cuts steel. Cutting metal this way produces heat and sparks, so wear eye protection and keep flammable material away. Look at our overview of metal deburring for finishing the cut end.
Reaming. After cutting, the inside burr must be reamed away. A pipe reamer, either a standalone tool or one built into a cutter, does the job.
Threading. A pipe threader uses dies matched to the pipe size to cut tapered threads. Hand-operated ratcheting threaders are practical for occasional jobs, and powered units exist for production work. Cutting oil keeps the dies cool and the threads clean. Pipe threads are tapered, which is different from the straight threads on a typical bolt; see the topic of thread pitch for the general idea.
Joining and holding. Two pipe wrenches are used together, one holding the existing pipe and the other turning the fitting. Thread sealant or tape goes on the male threads. If a fitting is stuck, penetrating oil can help loosen it, though patience matters more than force.
Cast iron drain pipe
Older drain lines may be cast iron. A snap cutter, a chain-style tool that scores the pipe in one squeeze, is often used to cut it, though an angle grinder or reciprocating saw with a suitable blade also works. Cast iron is heavy and produces fine dust and sharp edges, so use eye and breathing protection and have help supporting the pipe. Modern repairs commonly join cut ends with rubber-gasketed couplings secured by stainless clamps, and a nut driver or torque-limiting driver tightens them. Check the coupling’s instructions for the correct tightness.
Tools that work with every material
- Tape measure and marker for accurate lengths. Remember to allow for how far the pipe seats into each fitting.
- Level or slope gauge, since drain lines need a gentle downward pitch.
- Pipe supports and hangers, plus a drill and the right bits for fastening them.
- Deburring tool and clean rags.
- Buckets and towels to catch the water that remains in a line after draining.
Fit, test and protect
Dry-fit joints before making them permanent so you can mark orientation and confirm lengths. After joining, restore water slowly and check every joint for seepage. A joint that drips is usually better redone than hidden. Wear eye protection, keep tools clean, and work from the manufacturer’s manuals, since fittings from different systems should not be mixed unless the instructions allow it. This is general information; code requirements vary by location and some work needs a permit or a licensed professional.