One tool, many shapes
Pliers grip, bend, hold and cut, but no single pair does all of those well. Most shops end up with a few pairs, each with a different jaw shape. Understanding what each one is made for, and what it is not made for, saves tools and fingers. This article looks at the common styles.
Slip-joint pliers
Slip-joint pliers have a pivot that can be moved to one of two positions, which widens the jaw opening for larger objects. They are the familiar all-purpose pliers many households keep in a drawer. They are good for holding small items, pulling a stubborn staple or gripping a flat object.
They are not intended for turning fasteners. The jaws are usually serrated and do not fit a nut or bolt head squarely, so they tend to round off corners. When you need to turn a nut, a wrench is the correct tool, and the difference between a wrench versus socket and pliers is an important one to learn early.
Needle-nose pliers
Needle-nose (long-nose) pliers have tapered jaws for reaching into tight spots, holding small parts and forming loops in wire. Many include a cutting edge near the pivot. They are standard for electronics and light electrical work.
They are not for heavy gripping. The long jaws flex and can spring out of alignment when used to twist a stubborn object, so avoid using them as a lever. Choose a pair with smooth action and jaws that meet cleanly at the tips.
Locking pliers
Locking pliers clamp onto a workpiece and stay closed, thanks to an over-center toggle action you release with a lever. They hold with strong force, so they are used as a temporary clamp, to grip a damaged fastener or to hold a part while you work on it. Variations include curved jaw, long-nose and C-clamp styles.
They are not a substitute for a proper wrench on a good fastener, because their jaws can deform nuts and bolts. They can also mar soft material, so pad the jaws with scrap when needed. Locking pliers are sometimes used on stripped screws, which can work in a pinch but is a last resort, not a first choice. Always make sure the jaws are properly adjusted before closing them on a part, and release them gently, as some designs snap open.
Diagonal cutters
Diagonal cutters, also called side cutters, have angled cutting edges for snipping wire, cable ties and small nails. A flush-cut version leaves a smooth end. They are one of the most-used pliers in electrical and general work.
They are not for cutting hardened steel such as piano wire or bolts, which can chip the cutting edges. Look for a tool rated for the material you plan to cut, and wear eye protection, since cut ends can fly.
Linesman’s and combination pliers
Linesman’s pliers are heavy-duty, with flat gripping jaws, a cutting section and sometimes a crimping area. They are common among people who do electrical work and are built for gripping and cutting heavy wire. They are not a replacement for specialized wire stripping tools, which strip insulation more cleanly without nicking the conductor. If you do any electrical work, a cutter and stripper that matches the wire size is worth having.
Tongue-and-groove pliers
Tongue-and-groove pliers, often called channel-type pliers, have an adjustable pivot with several positions, allowing a wide range of jaw openings. They are useful for plumbing, such as gripping a pipe or large nut, and for general gripping. They can mar finished surfaces, so wrap chrome plumbing with a cloth first. They are not designed to take large amounts of torque on fastener heads that fit a wrench.
Other types worth knowing
Snap-ring pliers expand or compress retaining rings, and are a specialist tool mostly used in automotive or mechanical work. Hose clamp pliers assist with spring clamps. A small pair of end-cutting pliers (nippers) can pull nails or cut tight to a surface. These can wait until a project requires them.
What to look for
- Jaw alignment: The jaws should meet evenly, without a gap or twist.
- Pivot quality: It should move smoothly, without wobble.
- Handle comfort: Cushioned or textured grips help for longer sessions, though bare steel is acceptable.
- Material: Forged steel is typical in better pairs, and hardened cutting edges stay sharp longer.
- Insulated handles: Insulation can add a layer of protection, but it is not a guarantee. Insulated tools should be inspected for nicks, and live circuits should be de-energized before any work. Safety gear specific to electrical work is a topic of its own.
Safe use
Match the pliers to the task, keep hands clear of the jaws and do not extend the handles with a pipe for extra leverage. Wear eye protection when cutting. Check for damage, rust and loose pivots from time to time, and apply a drop of light oil to the pivot if it sticks. Clean off dirt after use so the jaws remain in good shape.
A sensible beginner set includes slip-joint, needle-nose and diagonal cutting pliers, with locking pliers added soon after. That small group covers most household tasks without overspending.