A workflow, not a shopping list
Hand tools for woodworking make most sense when you think of them in the order a project uses them: mark, cut, shape, fit, and finish. Power tools can do some or all of those steps, but hand tools remain useful for precision, for quiet work and for small adjustments that a machine makes awkward. You do not need a large collection. A modest set, kept sharp, goes a long way.
Marking and layout
Accurate work starts with accurate lines. A pencil is fine for rough marks, but for joinery a thin line is better. A marking knife leaves a fine cut line that a saw or chisel can register against, which is the main idea behind choosing a marking knife over a pencil.
A combination square gives you square lines and depth checks. A marking gauge scribes a line parallel to an edge, and a sliding bevel captures an angle to transfer it. A reliable steel rule and a tape measure round out layout. Most of these tools are small and relatively inexpensive, and good ones last for decades.
Saws
Hand saws are chiefly divided by how their teeth are cut. Rip teeth are shaped to cut along the grain; crosscut teeth are shaped to cut across it. Many general-purpose saws use a compromise tooth pattern. Understanding wood grain helps explain why: cutting along the fibers is different from severing them.
A small joinery saw with fine teeth, often a backsaw (it has a stiffening spine along the top), is used for accurate cuts in joints. A larger panel or general-purpose saw breaks down boards. A coping saw or fretsaw cuts curves. Some woodworkers also like Japanese-style pull saws, which cut on the pull stroke and use thin blades. These are a matter of preference, and each has its own feel.
Saw teeth dull with use. Some modern saws have hardened teeth that are not intended for resharpening, while traditional saws can be sharpened, though that takes practice.
Planes
Planes shave thin layers from wood to flatten, smooth and size it. A common starter is a bench plane of medium length, which can flatten faces and smooth edges. A block plane is small, held in one hand, and good for trimming end grain, chamfering and fitting parts. Longer planes are better at straightening long edges, and a shorter plane follows hollows in a board more closely.
Planes depend on a sharp iron (the blade) that is set to protrude a tiny amount, and they need a flat sole. Setting the depth lightly and taking thin shavings is the key technique. Planing against the grain may cause tearout, so check which way the grain runs and plane accordingly. This is hand-powered thickness planing at a small scale, and it is a very different experience from running a board through a machine.
Chisels and mallets
Chisels pare joints to fit and clean out corners. A basic set of bevel-edge chisels handles most tasks, and a wooden or rubber-faced mallet is the appropriate striking tool. Chisels are among the first tools worth owning.
Files, rasps and scrapers
A rasp removes wood quickly on curved shapes, and a file refines the surface afterward. A cabinet scraper, a thin flexible piece of steel, smooths difficult grain that sandpaper or a plane might tear. These tools take some learning but cost little.
Holding the work
Hand tool work requires a secure workpiece. A solid bench, a vise and a few clamps allow you to saw and plane without chasing the wood around. Many hand-tool woodworkers consider the workbench as important as any tool. A bench stop, which is simply a block that keeps a board from sliding as you plane, is easily made.
Sharpening
Edges are the common thread. Chisels and plane irons depend on a sharp, flat edge, so basic sharpening equipment belongs in the kit. Many woodworkers use a combination of sharpening stones or plates in a few grits, and a honing guide to hold a consistent angle. Keeping edges sharp is easier when you hone often rather than waiting until the edge is badly dull.
Choosing wood to practice on
If you are learning, a softwood such as pine is forgiving and inexpensive, but it can tear and dent. Hardwoods hold crisp detail but resist the tools more. The differences between hardwood versus softwood are worth understanding before you buy lumber for a project, and learning to spot board warping early saves frustration when you try to flatten a face.
A starter set
A reasonable beginner’s set might include:
- A tape measure, combination square, marking gauge and marking knife
- A general-purpose hand saw and a small joinery saw
- A block plane and a medium bench plane
- Three bevel-edge chisels and a mallet
- Sharpening stones and a honing guide
- A few clamps and a bench vise
Buy what you need for the project in front of you. Wear eye protection when striking chisels or sawing, keep both hands behind the cutting edge, and secure the work before cutting. Used tools from a reputable source can be a good value, as long as you check for cracks, rust pitting and warped soles, and are prepared to tune them.