What this build is about
The space under a workbench is the most underused storage in many shops. Turning it into drawers, shelves and cabinets keeps tools close, protects them from dust and can even add weight to the base, which makes the bench steadier. The challenge is doing it without making the bench awkward to use: you still need room for your knees, access to clamps on the edge and a frame that does not flex.
This article is specific to the base under the benchtop. For storage that surrounds a larger workstation, see the separate workstation project. Dimensions here are hypothetical examples.
Decide what the base should hold
List the items before drawing the base. Hand tools in daily use want shallow drawers. Power tools want shelves or deep drawers sized to their cases. Hardware and fasteners want small bins. Long items like clamps or boards want an open rack or a tall cabinet. A rough guide:
- Shallow drawers (about 3 to 4 inches inside depth) for layout tools, chisels, screwdrivers and small hand tools.
- Medium drawers (about 6 to 8 inches) for planes, drill bits and sanders.
- Deep drawers or open shelves for larger power tools and their cases.
- A cabinet with a door for finishing supplies or items that benefit from dust protection.
Measure your actual tools rather than relying on typical sizes. Make the openings fit the largest item you intend to store in them with a small allowance.
Build the frame first and the openings second
The frame provides the rigidity, so build it before thinking about drawers. Typical choices are:
- Leg-and-rail frame with fitted cabinet boxes. The frame carries the load; separate plywood boxes slide or bolt into the openings. This is easy to modify and allows repairs.
- Cabinet-style base. Plywood side panels double as the structure, with a solid back to resist racking. It is strong but less flexible to change.
Sheet goods are the usual material for the box parts. Plywood generally holds screws better and resists sagging better than particleboard. The differences are discussed in plywood, MDF and particleboard compared. Use screws with glue at the joints, or use dado joints and rabbets for stronger box corners, as explained in dado joints.
Whichever approach you choose, plan for the openings to remain square. A drawer opening that is out of square makes the drawer bind. Measure diagonals and use a square when assembling, as covered in checking square.
Plan the drawers
Drawers fall into a few types:
- Slide-mounted drawers. Metal slides, in various load ratings, make smooth operation easy. Choose slides rated well above the weight you expect, since tools are heavier than most people guess, and follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions on spacing.
- Wooden runners. Strips of hardwood or hardboard guide the drawers. They have no moving parts, but they need waxing and careful fitting.
- Slide-out trays. Open trays on slides give the benefit of access without the construction of a full drawer.
For the drawer boxes, plywood with glued and screwed or dado joints works well. A bottom set into grooves or glued and screwed on with the grain direction in mind prevents sagging. A hypothetical drawer holding heavy tools should have a thick bottom and a strong front connection.
Add dividers and liners. A non-slip liner prevents tools from sliding, and small dividers prevent a pile of loose items. The suggestions in drawer organization help set these up.
Keep the bench useful
Avoid enclosing the entire base. Leave an open section for stools, a vacuum or your knees if you sit to work. Don’t put drawer fronts where they will be in the way of leg vises or clamps. If you use a side clamping rail or vise, keep the drawer opening clear of the mounting zone.
Make sure drawers cannot slide open by themselves when you hit the bench, since a heavy drawer sliding out onto your feet is a hazard. Positive catches, magnetic closures or a lip help keep them shut. Use a stop so the drawer cannot be pulled completely out by accident.
Think about weight and stability
Loaded drawers can add a lot of weight low in the bench, which is mostly helpful. But the opposite can happen: a very heavy top with a light base can be top-heavy. Weight the lower shelf and keep the heaviest tools low. Check that the floor, particularly in an upstairs room or a garage with a slope, can support the load.
Because storage reduces air circulation, humidity can build up in closed spaces. In a damp shop, protect steel with a light coat of oil or rust inhibitor and consider desiccant packs. Details are covered under rust prevention.
Finish and hardware
Sand the edges and ease the corners so you do not snag clothing. A clear finish on drawer interiors makes them easier to clean, but avoid a slippery top coat. Pulls should be rugged enough to take daily use and set so that they do not stick out and catch your hip. Recessed pulls or cut-out handles are common choices.
Test before loading
Assemble the base, install the drawers and check each one for smooth action while empty. Then load them progressively. Listen and look for sagging, flexing, or binding, and adjust now rather than after the tools are all in. Check fasteners after a few weeks, since screws in plywood can settle.
A bench with well-planned storage should feel solid, close at hand and uncluttered. If the base keeps you from clamping, kneeling or reaching, the design needs rethinking, not more hardware.