What this saw is built for
A reciprocating saw pushes and pulls a straight blade back and forth. It is not a precision tool, but it reaches places that other saws cannot: inside wall cavities, along pipes, through nail-embedded lumber, and into awkward corners. Used well, it is controlled and predictable. Used carelessly, it jumps, binds and kicks. The difference between a jigsaw and a reciprocating saw is mostly about reach and aggressiveness; here the focus is on bracing, plunge starts and tight-space work.
Safety first
Unplug the saw or take out the battery before you change a blade, and confirm the blade is firmly locked in the clamp. Wear eye protection, hearing protection and gloves that do not dangle near moving parts, and a dust mask when cutting treated or old materials. Before any cut in a wall, floor or ceiling, find out what is behind the surface. Hidden electrical cables, plumbing and gas lines are real hazards, and a reciprocating saw can cut through them quickly. Power to nearby circuits is often shut off for such work, and stud finder use can help you spot some obstacles. If there is doubt, stop and get qualified help. Follow your saw’s manual, and treat this article as general information.
Keep both hands on the saw, keep the cord or battery pack clear of the blade, and never put your hand behind the workpiece where the blade exits. Let the blade stop before you set the saw down.
Brace the shoe
The shoe is the metal foot at the front of the saw. Pressing it firmly against the workpiece is the main way to control the saw. Without that contact, the blade bounces, the cut chatters and the saw may jump back at you.
- Start with the shoe against the surface, and keep light forward pressure through the whole cut.
- Hold the saw with the front hand near the gear housing and the back hand on the handle, with your elbows slightly bent so you can absorb vibration.
- Many saws let you adjust the shoe forward or back. Moving it to expose a fresh part of the blade spreads out wear, since only the section near the end gets used otherwise.
- Do not let the shoe slip off the work in the middle of a cut; stop and reposition instead.
Clamp or hold the material if it can move. A loose pipe or board that vibrates will bind the blade or snap it. When cutting trim or boards, support both sides of the cut so the offcut does not drop and pinch the blade near the end.
Starting a plunge cut
A plunge cut means starting in the middle of a surface, such as cutting an opening in a sheet of plywood, rather than from an edge. It can be done with a reciprocating saw, but it is one of the riskier moves, because the blade tends to skip and kick when it first touches the surface. Many people find it safer to drill a starter hole and begin there.
If you do plunge with the saw:
- Mark the cut and check what is behind the surface.
- Rest the lower edge of the shoe on the work and tilt the saw so that the blade tip is angled toward the surface, not square to it.
- Bring the saw to speed before the tip makes contact, with the blade clear of the work.
- Pivot slowly on the shoe edge, so that the tip bites in and gradually the blade moves to a full-depth cut.
- Once through, straighten the saw and continue along the line.
Keep a firm grip, because the saw may buck at the start. Practice on scrap first. For thick or hard material, drilling a hole to begin is typically more controlled.
Cutting in tight spots
Short blades are easier to maneuver, and long blades reach deeper but flex more. Choose a length that is just enough for the thickness you are cutting, with a little extra for the stroke. When working in a stud bay or between joists, a short, rigid blade avoids hitting the opposite wall.
Some tight situations suit special accessories: flexible blades for flush cuts against a surface, and short, stubby blades for cramped places. Work the saw at an angle, using the shoe on any available surface as a pivot. If you must cut overhead or in an awkward posture, take a breath, set your footing and keep your body away from the line the saw would travel if it jumped.
When cutting pipes, secure the pipe so it cannot turn, and confirm the line is depressurized and drained as appropriate. For anything involving gas, water supply or electrical systems, use proper procedures. Cut pipe that is fixed in place and secure the section being removed so it does not drop.
Choosing the blade
The right blade makes more difference than extra force. Wood blades typically have fewer, larger teeth to clear chips quickly. Metal blades have many fine teeth, and thicker blades cut more steadily and tolerate bending. Demolition blades are designed to survive nails and mixed material. Pruning blades have deep gullets for green wood. Check the packaging, and match tooth count to the material thickness so that at least several teeth are in contact at once for metal, and fewer larger teeth for wood. Dull or bent blades heat up, wander and break, so replace them when cutting slows.
Using the wrong blade on metal can overheat it and wear it out in a hurry. If the blade gets hot to the point of discoloration, it is time to replace it.
Speed and orbital action
Variable speed lets you start slowly to avoid skipping, then increase once the blade is cutting. Slower speeds generally suit metal and hard materials, and faster speeds suit wood. Some saws have an orbital setting that moves the blade slightly forward and back with each stroke, which cuts wood faster but roughens the edge; it is usually turned off for metal and for finish work.
Finishing and care
When the cut is nearly complete, support the offcut and ease off the pressure so the last fibers don’t tear. Keep the saw running until the blade is out of the cut, then release the trigger. Allow the blade to cool before touching it. Blow out dust from the vents, inspect the blade clamp for wear, and store blades where they won’t dull against each other.