The core idea: spread, set, check, strike
Laying brick or block comes down to a repeating loop. You spread a bed of mortar, set the unit, check it against a line and a level, tap it into place, and later finish the joint. Each tool in a basic kit serves one of those steps, which makes it easier to see what is essential and what is nice to have.
This article covers the hand tools for laying new masonry. Mixing and cutting are part of the overall picture, and repair work uses a different set of tools.
Trowels
The trowel is the tool you will hold most, so it is worth choosing with some care.
- Brick trowel. A diamond-shaped blade, often around 10 to 11 inches long, used to pick up mortar, spread a bed and cut off the excess. A heavier blade can feel more stable but tires the wrist faster. Try holding a few if you can, and choose a balance and handle you can use for hours.
- Pointing trowel. A small trowel for filling gaps, patching and working in tight spots.
- Margin trowel or gauging trowel. Handy for mixing small batches and scooping mortar from a tub.
- Buttering trowel or tool for block. Block laying often involves spreading mortar on the edges of units, and some people prefer a wider trowel for that.
Do not confuse these with notched tile trowels, which spread adhesive in ridges. Masonry trowels spread flat, solid beds of mortar. Handedness matters: trowels are made for left- and right-handed users.
Levels and straightedges
A spirit level tells you whether a course is flat (level) and whether the face of the wall is vertical (plumb). Masons typically use a long level, often 4 feet, because a longer tool averages out small irregularities in individual units. A shorter level is useful for tight spots and for checking individual bricks.
Useful additions include:
- A line level or a laser level. On a longer wall or a patio, a laser level makes it easier to transfer a height across a distance, though it adds cost, and it is not needed for a small project.
- A framing square or a large square. Corners must be square, and a quick method of checking square keeps the first course from carrying a mistake up the whole wall. The same thinking is used when squaring a room indoors.
- A rubber mallet or the trowel handle. Both are used to tap a unit down into the mortar bed for fine adjustment.
Line tools
A level checks short distances. A taut string checks the whole length of a course.
- Mason’s line. A strong, thin string stretched between two points, held at the top edge of the course being laid.
- Line blocks. Small plastic or wooden blocks that hold the line against the corners of the wall so it sits at the correct height and stays flush with the face.
- Line pins or corner stakes. For free-standing work like a garden wall, pins or nails hold the line in position.
- A chalk line. A chalk line marks a straight layout on a slab or footing, so you can see where the first course must go. Snap it carefully and check diagonal measurements to confirm that the layout is square.
Mason’s corners, built a few courses high at the ends of a wall, give the line something solid to attach to. Most beginners find that laying out and building the corners carefully is the most useful habit they can form.
Measuring and marking
A tape measure and a pencil do most of the work. A folding rule can be handy for spacing. Many masons use a story pole (also called a gauge rod): a straight board marked at each course height, including the mortar joint. Held against the wall, it shows at a glance whether courses are at the right height and lets you check windows, sills and the top of the wall without repeated arithmetic. Making a story stick is cheap and removes a lot of guessing. Dimensional layouts depend on the unit size and joint thickness you choose, which differ by product, so measure the actual units you have.
A pencil or a marking crayon works better than a marker on rough surfaces. A square and a tape also help with laying out openings.
Jointers and striking tools
Once the mortar has stiffened enough to hold a thumbprint (a state often called thumbprint hard), the joints are tooled. Tooling compresses the mortar against the units, which helps shed water and gives a neat appearance.
- Jointer (convex). A rounded profile pushes mortar in and leaves a slightly concave joint. This is a common, durable choice for exterior walls.
- V-jointer. Leaves a V-shaped groove. It looks crisp, but some people find that water sits in the groove more easily, so many prefer the concave style outside.
- Sled runner. A long jointer for working longer runs of joints in one pass.
- Raking tool. Used for a recessed look, though recessed joints can collect water and are less common outdoors.
- A short length of rounded rod or a bent piece of metal. In a pinch, any firm round object of suitable diameter will produce a similar result, though a proper jointer gives more consistent results.
Finish by trimming the burrs along the joints with a brick brush or a stiff bristle brush, once the mortar has set enough not to smear. Work horizontal (bed) joints first, then the vertical (head) joints, so the finished wall sheds water in an orderly way.
Supporting items
A few other tools make the work smoother:
- Hawk or mortar board. A flat board that holds a working supply of mortar at a convenient height.
- Brick hammer and brick set. For trimming units by hand to fit.
- Wheelbarrow or mixing tub, and a hoe. For mixing mortar. Mixing is covered in the broader overview of concrete and masonry tools.
- Water and sponge. Helps remove smears before they cure. Take care with acid-based cleaners, which have their own safety requirements; follow the label.
- Brick tongs. For carrying several bricks at a time.
Safety on the job
Fresh mortar is caustic, so wear waterproof gloves and rinse any skin contact. Safety glasses are essential when cutting or chipping units, because chips fly. Heavy block can strain the back, so lift with your legs and consider working at a comfortable height. If you cut units with a saw or grinder, dust protection and hearing protection are needed. Wear sturdy work gloves and boots when moving units. Check the project against local building rules for walls above a modest height or ones that retain soil, because those often need a proper footing, reinforcement or an engineer’s input. This is general information, not professional advice.