Storage starts before the tool goes away
How a tool is put away often matters more than where. A tool stored damp, dirty or damaged may look fine at first and then be rusty, stuck or unsafe months later. A few minutes of preparation before storing is typically cheaper than restoring a neglected tool.
This article focuses on what to do to the tool. The setting matters too, since tool storage basics and equipment storage conditions both affect how well your preparation holds up.
Clean first
Dirt holds moisture against metal and hides damage, so cleaning comes before everything else.
- Brush or vacuum off dust and chips. Use eye and dust protection.
- Remove resin and sticky residue from blades and bits with a cleaner suited to the job, following the product’s directions, then rinse or wipe away any cleaner.
- Wipe handles, grips and housings with a dry or slightly damp cloth, then dry completely.
- Clear vents on power tools, and check that chucks and collets are free of debris.
For corded or battery tools, make sure the power is disconnected first.
Dry thoroughly
Water left in joints, threads and crevices is a common route to rust. After wiping, let tools sit in open air for a while if they were damp, and pay attention to places where moisture hides: under the heads of clamps, inside socket-wrench mechanisms, around hinge pins and in the groove of a combination square. Never store a tool that is still wet from cleaning, and avoid sealing a damp tool in a case or bag, which can trap moisture against the metal.
Protect bare metal
Bare steel, including saw tables, plane soles, chisels, wrench jaws and blade surfaces, benefits from a thin protective film. Common choices are light machine oil, paste wax or a rust-inhibiting product made for tools. For long storage, a slightly heavier coating may be appropriate. Apply it sparingly and wipe off the excess, because a heavy coat attracts dust and can transfer to wood or other materials later. Humid spaces call for more attention to rust prevention than dry ones.
Check the manual for products to avoid on rubber, plastic or electronics, and keep oils away from brake or clutch surfaces on tools where those matter.
Take care of edges and points
Sharp tools should be sharpened or at least touched up before storage when practical, so they are ready for the next use. Cover or sheath edges: plane irons retracted, chisels in a roll or rack, blades in sleeves or sheaths, bits in an index or case. This protects both the edge and your fingers. Loose blades piled together dull and chip each other.
Power tools, cords and batteries
- Cords. Inspect for cuts and damage before storing, then coil loosely in large loops. Tight kinks and wrapping around the tool can stress the conductors over time. Power cord care applies to storage as well as use.
- Batteries. Practices vary by battery type and manufacturer, so follow the guidance for your specific battery and charger. In general, manufacturers suggest storing batteries in a cool, dry place, away from direct heat or sources of sparks, and not leaving them for long periods in a hot car. Many recommend leaving them partly charged rather than fully charged or empty for longer storage. If a battery looks swollen, leaks or smells odd, stop using it and follow disposal guidance from the manufacturer or a local recycling program.
- Brush motors and switches. Run a brief cleaning pass on any visible vents, and note any odd noises you want to look into before the next project.
- Remove batteries from devices such as flashlights, testers and some measuring tools that will sit unused for a long time, since leaking cells can damage them.
Compressors, hoses and fluid systems
Pneumatic equipment has its own step. With the power off, drain moisture from a compressor tank according to the manual, and release pressure before storing hoses and fittings. Store air hoses coiled loosely and without kinks, and keep fittings capped or in a clean spot. If the manual describes anything for fuel or oil systems on engine-driven equipment before extended storage, follow that exactly, as the requirements differ by machine.
Wooden handles and leather
Wooden handles can dry out and crack in very dry conditions or swell in damp ones. A light application of a suitable oil or wax can help, but avoid slippery finishes on grips. Keep leather sheaths and rolls dry, since damp leather can also corrode metal stored inside it, which is worth remembering when you put chisels away.
Make the final stop a good one
Once tools are clean, dry and protected, put them in a place that suits them. Keep them off bare concrete floors where moisture seeps up, away from windows that cause condensation, and in an organized setup such as a toolbox with liners, a rack or a drawer, so that everything has a home. Good toolbox storage and a tidy magnetic strip or rack make it easy to see at a glance if something is missing, and labeling shelves or bins helps you find it again in spring.
For long storage, it is worth checking things partway through. A quick look every couple of months for rust or leaking batteries takes little time. This is general guidance, and each tool’s manual should guide its specific storage steps.